The Mad Bulb Planter

It is not too often we get all of this planter's delight weather to clean up our garden and move the plants that didn't do well in certain locations.  Can you believe I have moved some of these plants three times.  They had better work out next year or they are gone.  I know it is not the plant's fault, it is mine, but I have run out of places to move them.

Betty Corning in the shade of neighbor's lilac

The Duchess Of Albany has lush foliage but not many blooms.

Individual flowers looked good but there were not many of them.

I received another bulb delivery last week, this is the fourth and I am having trouble keeping up with the planting.  I am trying, but I still have some bulbs left to put into the soil, along with cutting down my garden and putting it to bed. 

I want to move Duchess Of Albany Clematis, it is huge and in too much shade.  This will be the third move for the Duchess and the last.  I have already moved Betty Corning to a much sunnier location and cut down Sweet Autumn Clematis (I know it is a type 3, cut in early spring, but it is overpowering on the pergola).  My bet is it will survive because it is so tenacious and goes wherever it feels like.

Clematis Duchess Of Albany (how it should look and with the darker variations)

Clematis Betty Corning (lots of blooms and a lovely blue under the correct growing conditions)

I put in a mixture of Orienpet Lilies in between the Happy Returns Daylilies which are in the raised bed and added several more in front of my Panicum Northwind in the back garden.

Mixed Orienpet Lilies

Allium Schubertii was so fascinating at my garden club presentation, I was actually hesitant to plant it because the sphere was so large, but it is only 16" tall.  Needless to say, I ordered some for planting out in my front garden.

Allium Schubertii

Allium Globemaster added to the back border

I planted a new species tulip in the back border after reading many glowing reports about its beauty.

Species Tulip Tangerine Beauty

There is still time to plant some bulbs, as long as the soil can be worked,  How exciting it is to see something new coming up in the spring!



Fall Bulb Planting

The most important step in planting bulbs in the fall is to purchase large, high quality bulbs.  The 14/15 or 16/17 notations relate to the size of the bulb.  The higher the numbers the larger the bulb which will produce more and larger blooms.  Make sure the bulbs are firm, not soft or moldy.

This is Itzim Daffodil laid out in alternating triangles.  It is a smaller daffodil so I place them four or five inches apart.

Daffodil Itzim is a good replacement for Tete-A-Tete because it has a longer bloom time and is approximately the same size.

I use an auger attachment on the end of a drill to get through difficult soil and groundcovers, smaller bulbs that require more shallow planting can be put in with a hand trowel.  Some people dig large areas and place many bulbs in groupings.  This only works if you know there is nothing else in the area that you will disturb.

The Lirope that grows under the pear tree has been cut back because it is very difficult to plant in this area and the grass turns yellow during the winter.  It softens quite a bit and is very difficult in the spring.

I sprinkle a little bulb fertilizer in the hole, mix it up a little, put the bulb in point up.  If you're not sure which is the top you can always lay it sideways and it will come up just fine.

We put in some more Orange Emperor Tulips around the Chanticleer Pear.  Here it is pictured with Sweetheart Emperor.

Another very early daffodil called Early Sensation was added to the borders in front of the house.  They are pictured above on the south side of my home last spring - long blooming.

Cover with soil and mulch, tamp down with your feet when done, supposedly this will help deter critters.  I'll try anything as I have a major problem with squirrels in the fall and rabbits in the spring, mostly for tulips.  Plantskydd for Critters seemed to help last year and I also used chicken wire with metal garden staples.

I also put in three different varieties of Orienpet Lilies (a cross between Asiatic and Oriental Lilies).  They range in height from three to six feet.  They look great peeking out from behind other plantings, phlox, roses, daisies, etc.

Conca d'Orr

Lavon

Satisfaction

Bulbs can be planted until the ground freezes hard.  I have actually planted bulbs as late as December in zone 5 (not a recommendation).

It seems like a lot of work but so rewarding to look out and see the fruits of your labor in the springtime!

Bulb Planting Time Is Here

My serious garden club met last week and had a serious workshop on fall bulb planting.  The person who spoke is a purchaser and bulb expert for a local nursery.  She was very knowledgeable and so excited about her favorite seasonal bulbs.

Itzim

This is one of my favorite early daffodils.  It is similar to Tete-a-Tete but blooms for a much longer time period.

One of her favorite bulbs is Allium Schubertii  which is so large I asked what she did with the leftover spiked dried blooms.  She says friends of hers spray paint them white like snowflakes.

Allium Schubertii

When planting tulips beyond the species tulips it is recommended that they be planted 10" deep in our area (zone 5) to increase chances of them returning the following year.  I have to admit that I rarely plant anything this deep and do not count on my tulips coming back.  I have had better luck with the Emperor variety but they do not return with their typical large blooms. 

As far as rabbits are concerned, she told us if we walked over the area we had just planted it would erase the scent of the bulbs.  I'll try this, but it sounds too simple!  I have used chicken wire with plant stakes (this definitely works) and a granular product called Plantskydd for Critters (this product works well on the squirrels who are the main bulb diggers in the fall - works also on the rabbits in the spring but not as well on the babies who do not mind a bad smell).

Orange Emperor Tulips

Soil is a major factor in regard to tulips being return visitors, it must be rich  and loamy, not solid clay, with some bulb fertilizer mixed in (Espoma Bulb Tone was her recommendation).  Throw a little in the planting hole, mix with soil or put a little on top of the soil after planting and filling the hole.  Tulip leaves should be left on the plant until they turn yellow or pull out of the soil easily.

Daffodils are another story, they are not quite as fussy but do benefit from being fertilized.  If your daffodils have ceased blooming profusely then they need to be divided.  They form many bulblets around the main bulb and just send up leaves and maybe one flower.  I had to divide Mount Hood last year and am not sure what to expect his year in regard to bloom.  When done blooming, daffodil leaves should be left standing, not braided, tied, cut or buried under dirt or mulch.  I have gotten much better about overplanting bulbs with plantings that cover the bulb leaves. 

Mount Hood Daffodil

Hyacinths are also prone to splitting into several florets instead of that compact large bloom when they are newly planted.  Our presenter said that this is also due to them not being planted deep enough.  I am afraid I am a big offender of the not deep enough crowd.  I guess I am too lazy to dig ten inches deep!

In order to have a good start for bulbs the soil needs to be cooled down to 60 degrees before planting.  I am not always planting in regard to soil temperature as I plant when it is comfortable for me to be working outside.  It has never been a problem in regard to bloom whether I plant in September or December (you can plant bulbs up until the ground is frozen)

Early Sensation Daffodil (blooms very early and for about three weeks)

Amaryllis and Paperwhites were dealt with briefly and no mention was made of the Christmas variety which blooms earlier than any of the regular amaryllis.  Check all of these bulbs out on http://www.johnscheepers.com/ and http://www.vanengelen.com/ 

Our presenter recommended that the amaryllis bulbs be saved from year to year for rebloom.  After the plant is finished blooming she said to let the leaves grow for awhile and then cease watering and put in a dark area.  When you notice that green tip beginning to form again at the top of the bulb, then it is time to begin watering again and give the bulb some light.  It was recommended that the amaryllis be planted in good potting soil half way down with the other half of the bulb out of soil.  Amaryllis will also grow in pebbles and water but for holding over for rebloom soil is a better medium.  Paperwhites are a one-time bloom plant, enjoy and throw away.

Christmas Amaryllis (There are many colors to choose from)

Paperwhites Ziva



If you live in a southern climate many bulb companies will ship pre-cooled bulbs.  Happy planting!

Amaryllis and Paperwhites

Each and every fall for many years I have grown amaryllis and paperwhites for the holidays.  They are very easy to grow in a good potting soil. I am really a fan of the Christmas Amaryllis because it blooms in four to six weeks rather than the eight to twelve of the regular amaryllis.

Rock 'n Roll Amaryllis

Merry Christmas Amaryllis

Razzle Dazzle Amaryllis

Paperwhite Ziva

There are double and single Christmas Amaryllis and I find that the red twig dogwood stems sold in many nurseries around the holidays are great for holding up the stems of both the amaryllis and the paperwhites.

It is time to order both bulbs now and keep them in a cool place until ready to plant.  http://www.johnscheepers.com/ or http://www.vanengelen.com/  I better get going as I have already ordered my spring bulbs but not my holiday bulbs!